2009Unimas Institutional Repository (Universiti Malaysia Sarawak)Open access

Design wave nearshore using the application of linear wave theory

Bin Halmi Iwan

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Abstract

Linear wave theory, also known as first-order, small-amplitude, or Airy wave theory is the simplest method of predicting wave characteristics with assumption that \nwaves are two-dimensional wave. In this study, Sarawak river estuary is chosen to observe wave conditions nearshore. The offshore wave data are analyzed for various design waves of average one third of maximum wave heights (H1I3) and extreme value of Gumbel and Weibull statistical distribution. In this study, the wave was designed for three (3) scenarios. There are for Annual, Northeast Monsoon and Southwest Monsoon. \nThis was followed by calculation of wave transformation nearshore using linear wave theory of Regular Wave theory. Weibull statistical distribution predicted higher wave height nearshore compared to Gumbel statistical distribution. Hl/3 gives the smallest. \nThe maximum design wave (H1I3) is about 6.19m obtained from Northeast wave scenario with period of2.14s. The des ign wave and wave period varied from location to \nlocation for each wind direction.

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Linear wave theory, also known as first-order, small-amplitude, or Airy wave theory is the simplest method of predicting wave characteristics with assumption that \nwaves are two-dimensional wave. In this study, Sarawak river estuary is chosen to observe wave conditions nearshore. The offshore wave data are analyzed for various design waves of average one third of maximum wave heights (H1I3) and extreme value of Gumbel and Weibull statistical distribution. In this study, the wave was designed for three (3) scenarios. There are for Annual, Northeast Monsoon and Southwest Monsoon. \nThis was followed by calculation of wave transformation nearshore using linear wave theory of Regular Wave theory. Weibull statistical distribution predicted higher wave height nearshore compared to Gumbel statistical distribution. Hl/3 gives the smallest. \nThe maximum design wave (H1I3) is about 6.19m obtained from Northeast wave scenario with period of2.14s. The des ign wave and wave period varied from location to \nlocation for each wind direction.

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Available abstract

Linear wave theory, also known as first-order, small-amplitude, or Airy wave theory is the simplest method of predicting wave characteristics with assumption that \nwaves are two-dimensional wave. In this study, Sarawak river estuary is chosen to observe wave conditions nearshore. The offshore wave data are analyzed for various design waves of average one third of maximum wave heights (H1I3) and extreme value of Gumbel and Weibull statistical distribution. In this study, the wave was designed for three (3) scenarios. There are for Annual, Northeast Monsoon and Southwest Monsoon. \nThis was followed by calculation of wave transformation nearshore using linear wave theory of Regular Wave theory. Weibull statistical distribution predicted higher wave height nearshore compared to Gumbel statistical distribution. Hl/3 gives the smallest. \nThe maximum design wave (H1I3) is about 6.19m obtained from Northeast wave scenario with period of2.14s. The des ign wave and wave period varied from location to \nlocation for each wind direction.

Key concepts: Gumbel distribution, Airy wave theory, Significant wave height, Wave height, Weibull distribution, Stokes wave, Wind wave, Rogue wave

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