Characteristic Analysis of Nearshore Waves Based on the LPB1-2 Wave Observing Instrument

In order to research the characteristics of nearshore waves, the main elements of nearshore waves are analyzed based on the wave data collected by the LPB1-2 wave observing instrument from a certain sea area. The maximum entropy distribution of wave height is derived using the maximum entropy principle. This paper studies the effects of state parameters on wave height distribution and wave height entropy. The results show that the wave height in this sea area almost ranges from 0.3 m to 0.7 m and the cycle from 2.5 s to 5.5 s. It is also calculated that the wave average deviation is 0.267, and the day-range deviation is among 0.1 m and 0.4 m with its maximum value reaching 1.0. Therefore, the wave distribution is relatively concentrated while the wave height distribution is almost in accordance with the Gaussian distribution.