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2014•Coastal Engineering ProceedingsOpen access

ESTIMATION OF MAXIMUM WAVE HEIGHTS BY WAVE SPECTRAL MODEL AND NONLINEAR WAVE THEORY

Nobuhito Mori, Yusuke Takagi, Koji Kawaguchi, Hiroaki KASHIMA, Hajime MASE, Tomohiro YASUDA, Hiroaki Shimada

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Abstract

The strong winter storm crossed from the west to east of the Sea of Japan developing rapidly in early April, 2012. The minimum pressure of the winter storm reached 964 hPa at 21:00 on 3rd April. The storm generated wind waves more than 10 m in the significant wave height and gave severe damages to coastal structures around Japan. This study analyzed observed wave records at 12 stations along the Sea of Japan. A series of numerical analysis was performed to understand the characteristics of extreme wave sea condition. The maximum wave heights were estimated based on the spectral wave model and nonlinear short wave statistical theory. The estimated maximum wave heights by the nonlinear theory show better agreement with the observed peak of maximum wave height than that by the linear theory.

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The strong winter storm crossed from the west to east of the Sea of Japan developing rapidly in early April, 2012. The minimum pressure of the winter storm reached 964 hPa at 21:00 on 3rd April. The storm generated wind waves more than 10 m in the significant wave height and gave severe damages to coastal structures around Japan. This study analyzed observed wave records at 12 stations along the Sea of Japan. A series of numerical analysis was performed to understand the characteristics of extreme wave sea condition. The maximum wave heights were estimated based on the spectral wave model and nonlinear short wave statistical theory. The estimated maximum wave heights by the nonlinear theory show better agreement with the observed peak of maximum wave height than that by the linear theory.

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Available abstract

The strong winter storm crossed from the west to east of the Sea of Japan developing rapidly in early April, 2012. The minimum pressure of the winter storm reached 964 hPa at 21:00 on 3rd April. The storm generated wind waves more than 10 m in the significant wave height and gave severe damages to coastal structures around Japan. This study analyzed observed wave records at 12 stations along the Sea of Japan. A series of numerical analysis was performed to understand the characteristics of extreme wave sea condition. The maximum wave heights were estimated based on the spectral wave model and nonlinear short wave statistical theory. The estimated maximum wave heights by the nonlinear theory show better agreement with the observed peak of maximum wave height than that by the linear theory.

Key concepts: Storm, Wave height, Significant wave height, Wind wave model, Wave model, Wind wave, Meteorology, Airy wave theory

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