2002•Unpublished venueRequires access
A Study on Breaking Wave Height Probability Distributionin Nearshore Areas
NI Wensheng
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Abstract
A new form of breaking wave height probability distribution in nearshore areas is aproposed in the paper by adopting the concept of random limited wave height into wave height statistics and taking nearshore waves as the composition of non-breaking waves and broken waves with different shapes of wave height probability distribution. It indicates that nearshore wave heightcan be generally described by Rayleigh distribution embodying proportional broken wave height probability density in the whole range of wave height, and the wave breaking probability relates to the ratio of local rms wave height to limited characteristic wave height. Its suitability to describe the random nature of nearshore breaking wave is well proved by the experimental data.