2012•Journal of Hohai UniversityRequires access

Extended geometric wave breaking indices

Yu Zhang

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Abstract

The depth-induced asymmetry of a wave profile in shallow water was studied based on the wave breaking indices proposed by Kjeldsen et al.With the experimental data,extended geometric wave breaking indices formulas for irregular waves were proposed,which depend on a weight coefficient ω,with consideration of two types of wave transformation.The parameters of the indices were obtained by means of the least square error method.A function for determination of the value of ω is given for application in shallow water.With the data collecting techniques of the wave profile with high resolution,the wave breaking indices,which consider the asymmetry of wave profile,are applicable to judgment of wave breaking in near-shore shallow water,and have high application value in practical engineering.

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The depth-induced asymmetry of a wave profile in shallow water was studied based on the wave breaking indices proposed by Kjeldsen et al.With the experimental data,extended geometric wave breaking indices formulas for irregular waves were proposed,which depend on a weight coefficient ω,with consideration of two types of wave transformation.The parameters of the indices were obtained by means of the least square error method.A function for determination of the value of ω is given for application in shallow water.With the data collecting techniques of the wave profile with high resolution,the wave breaking indices,which consider the asymmetry of wave profile,are applicable to judgment of wave breaking in near-shore shallow water,and have high application value in practical engineering.

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Available abstract

The depth-induced asymmetry of a wave profile in shallow water was studied based on the wave breaking indices proposed by Kjeldsen et al.With the experimental data,extended geometric wave breaking indices formulas for irregular waves were proposed,which depend on a weight coefficient ω,with consideration of two types of wave transformation.The parameters of the indices were obtained by means of the least square error method.A function for determination of the value of ω is given for application in shallow water.With the data collecting techniques of the wave profile with high resolution,the wave breaking indices,which consider the asymmetry of wave profile,are applicable to judgment of wave breaking in near-shore shallow water,and have high application value in practical engineering.

Key concepts: Breaking wave, Waves and shallow water, Wave shoaling, Transformation (genetics), Asymmetry, Wave height, Function (biology), Significant wave height

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