2006Ocean EngineeringRequires access

Wave breaking indices based on asymmetry of wave profiles

Yu Yang, Yucheng Li, Yang Jian-min

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Abstract

In order to find the relationship between wave breaking and asymmetry of wave profiles,wave breaking indices described in asymmetric wave parameters are presented in this paper and formulas about asymmetric wave parameters and relative water depth are also proposed here by means of Least-Square Error Method,which is dependent on further analysis of wave breaking experiment carried out on 1/200 slope.The results of regular waves in the present study are the same as those got by Kjeldsen in deep water conditions,which are greater than those of irregular waves.The research shows that the indices determined in this paper depend on relative water depth: the shallower the water depth,the greater the indices.

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What this paper is about

In order to find the relationship between wave breaking and asymmetry of wave profiles,wave breaking indices described in asymmetric wave parameters are presented in this paper and formulas about asymmetric wave parameters and relative water depth are also proposed here by means of Least-Square Error Method,which is dependent on further analysis of wave breaking experiment carried out on 1/200 slope.The results of regular waves in the present study are the same as those got by Kjeldsen in deep water conditions,which are greater than those of irregular waves.The research shows that the indices determined in this paper depend on relative water depth: the shallower the water depth,the greater the indices.

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Available abstract

In order to find the relationship between wave breaking and asymmetry of wave profiles,wave breaking indices described in asymmetric wave parameters are presented in this paper and formulas about asymmetric wave parameters and relative water depth are also proposed here by means of Least-Square Error Method,which is dependent on further analysis of wave breaking experiment carried out on 1/200 slope.The results of regular waves in the present study are the same as those got by Kjeldsen in deep water conditions,which are greater than those of irregular waves.The research shows that the indices determined in this paper depend on relative water depth: the shallower the water depth,the greater the indices.

Key concepts: Breaking wave, Asymmetry, Wave height, Wave shoaling, Surface wave, Geology, Mechanics, Wave propagation

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