Comparison of Nearshore Wave Characteristics between Theories and Lab Experiments

The paper describes a short wave model which accounts for wave shoaling, refraction and breaking for the nearshore region. In a more general form this wave model will be suited as a wave driver for nearshore circulation models such as the SHORECIRC (SC) model. The main objective of the present paper is to examine which improvements can be obtained in the prediction of the short wave properties and forcing by using a wave theory more accurate than the sine wave theory used in models such as the REF/DIF1. The model is based on cnoidal wave theory for waves outside surfzone, and on the theory of nonlinear hydraulic bore and semi-theoretical analysis for surfzone waves. The time averaged short wave properties (short wave forcing) which drive nearshore circulation are also formulated. Comparisons to lab experiments show that this model estimates short wave characteristics such as wave height, phase speed and surface profile as well as short wave forcing very well for nearshore waves.