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クノイド波に関する研究(第8報) ―水平方向水粒子速度に関する実験―
雄一 岩垣, 哲郎 酒井
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Abstract
Measurement of water particle velocity induced by surface wave motion has been madelittle because of difficulty, while it is important for clarification of wave breaking mecha-nism, wave force on offshore structures, mechanism of sediment suspension and diffusionby waves, and so on.In the 3rd and 6th papers, applicability of the cnoidal wave theory was discussed bycomparison of the experimental results of wave velocity, wave length and wave crestheight with the theoretical values.This paper presents experimental results of horizontal velocity of water particles ina wave tank by two methods, that is, hydrogen bubble tracer and a hot film anemometer.And applicability of the cnoidal wave theory is also discussed herein by comparison of theresults with Stokes wave theory of the 3rd order and the cnoidal wave and hyperbolicwave theories of the 2nd approximation.