2008•土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)Open access
Effect of 2nd high frequency waves induced by sinusoidal wave generation on wave shoaling, breaking and wave height near shoreline
Shin MIYAMAE, Jin Ikeda, Katsumi SEKI, Masaru Mizuguchi
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Abstract
Sinusoidal wave generation in shallow water produces higher order free waves. These high frequency free waves are responsiblefor wave height fluctuation in a wave flume. The wave height fluctuations are measured on a sloping bottom, and shown to be explained by KdV models. These high frequency waves also affects wave breaking and wave heightdecay after breaking, since phase difference between primary waves and second order free waves causes significantchange in local wave profile. Role of phase difference is confirmed by a series of experiment with varied slope locationrelative to wave maker
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