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有限振幅波理論による wave shoaling について
孝志 安田, Yi Wu
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Abstract
In this study, a theory of wave shoaling is described by the energy flux method, inorder to make clear characteristics of wave transformation such as changes of wave hightand wave length and effects of higher order terms of nonlinearity and dispersion in thewave equations on the wave transformation with shoaling.As a result, characteristics of wave transformation according to changes of the waterdepth and current velocity are found. It is also found that the effect of the higher orderterms on the wave transformation is remarkable.