2001•Unpublished venueRequires access

Nonlinear Wave Dynamics in Surf and Swash Zones

Zakaria A. Elnaggar, Akira Watanabe

Abstract

A highly nonlinear Boussinesq model is utilized to study the wave transformation in surf and swash zones. The model considers the time-dependency of the breaking process. An extrapolation for mass and velocity is used to determine the location of the last wet point. The model results are compared with experimental before and after breaking to check its accuracy.

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Available abstract

Key concepts: Swash, Extrapolation, Breaking wave, Nonlinear system, Surf zone, Transformation (genetics), Process (computing), Dependency (UML)