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Modelling Of Wave TransformationAcross The Inner Surf Zone And SwashOscillations On Beaches

Philippe Bonneton, Stéphane Vincent, Hélène Dupuis, Rodrigo Pedreros

Abstract

A numerical model based on a high order non-oscillatory MacCormack TVD scheme is presented for the solution of the non-linear Saint Venant equations in surf and swash zones. A comparison with measurements of surface elevations on a beach (True Vert Beach, France), shows that the model is capable of predicting accurately the transformation of irregular waves in the surf zone.

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Available abstract

Key concepts: Swash, Surf zone, Geology, Transformation (genetics), Wave setup, Shallow water equations, Geomorphology, Mechanics