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1966•Coastal Engineering ProceedingsOpen access

THE SHOALING, BREAKING AND RUNUP OP THE SOLITARY WAVE ON IMPERMEABLE ROUGH SLOPES

Tsutomu Kishi, Hiroshi Saeki

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Abstract

Variations m wave characteristics for solitary waves in shoaling water are discussed. The transition of wave character from the solitary wave to the bore is basic to the understanding of the problem. Experimental curves representing the transformation of wave height prior to breaking as well as the curves giving the breaker conditions are presented. Theories for the transformation of wave height after breaking and the prediction of the plunge point are presented and compared favorably with the laboratory measurements. Runup heights and wave quantities at the shoreline are measured to compare with the theory of a bore on a dry bed.

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Variations m wave characteristics for solitary waves in shoaling water are discussed. The transition of wave character from the solitary wave to the bore is basic to the understanding of the problem. Experimental curves representing the transformation of wave height prior to breaking as well as the curves giving the breaker conditions are presented. Theories for the transformation of wave height after breaking and the prediction of the plunge point are presented and compared favorably with the laboratory measurements. Runup heights and wave quantities at the shoreline are measured to compare with the theory of a bore on a dry bed.

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Available abstract

Variations m wave characteristics for solitary waves in shoaling water are discussed. The transition of wave character from the solitary wave to the bore is basic to the understanding of the problem. Experimental curves representing the transformation of wave height prior to breaking as well as the curves giving the breaker conditions are presented. Theories for the transformation of wave height after breaking and the prediction of the plunge point are presented and compared favorably with the laboratory measurements. Runup heights and wave quantities at the shoreline are measured to compare with the theory of a bore on a dry bed.

Key concepts: Breaking wave, Wave shoaling, Shoaling and schooling, Wave setup, Wave height, Geology, Transformation (genetics), Mechanics

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