Shoaling of Solitary Waves on Small Slopes
Frederick E. Camfield, Robert L. Street
Abstract
Frederick E. Camfield, Robert L. Street
Abstract
It is proposed that solitary waves can be used as the initial wave shape to simulate the shoaling and breaking of large, long waves on a beach. Experiments were conducted with solitary waves to determine criteria for wave growth, celerity, and breaking height on various beach slopes. Various analytical means of representing shoaling waves are considered. Further considerations are given to the method of characteristics as a means of analyzing shoaling waves, and a qualitative analysis is presented of the effect of vertical acceleration terms on the characteristics solution. A comparison is made between experimental results and the analytical solutions.
OpenAlex reports 78 citations for this work. Citation counts describe recorded attention and do not establish research quality.
A contribution statement is not available in the OpenAlex record.
Method details are not available in the OpenAlex metadata.
Findings are not separately available in the OpenAlex metadata.
Limitations are not available in the OpenAlex metadata.
Application details are not available in the OpenAlex metadata.
It is proposed that solitary waves can be used as the initial wave shape to simulate the shoaling and breaking of large, long waves on a beach. Experiments were conducted with solitary waves to determine criteria for wave growth, celerity, and breaking height on various beach slopes. Various analytical means of representing shoaling waves are considered. Further considerations are given to the method of characteristics as a means of analyzing shoaling waves, and a qualitative analysis is presented of the effect of vertical acceleration terms on the characteristics solution. A comparison is made between experimental results and the analytical solutions.
Key concepts: Shoaling and schooling, Breaking wave, Wave shoaling, Kondratiev wave, Geology, Acceleration, Wind wave, Mechanics