1963•Journal of Fluid MechanicsRequires access

Climb of a bore on a beach Part 3. Run-up

M. C. Shen, R. E. Meyer

Open publisher page 248 citations

Abstract

When a bore travels shoreward into water at rest on a beach, then according to the first-order non-linear long-wave theory, the bore accelerates and decreases in height, until it collapses at the shore. The investigation here reported concerns the question, what happens next? It is formulated as a singular characteristic boundary-value problem with somewhat unusual mathematical properties. Its asymptotic solution predicts a rather thin sheet of run-up and back-wash with some unexpected features.

About this research paper

What this paper is about

When a bore travels shoreward into water at rest on a beach, then according to the first-order non-linear long-wave theory, the bore accelerates and decreases in height, until it collapses at the shore. The investigation here reported concerns the question, what happens next? It is formulated as a singular characteristic boundary-value problem with somewhat unusual mathematical properties. Its asymptotic solution predicts a rather thin sheet of run-up and back-wash with some unexpected features.

Why it matters

OpenAlex reports 248 citations for this work. Citation counts describe recorded attention and do not establish research quality.

Key contribution

A contribution statement is not available in the OpenAlex record.

Method / approach

Method details are not available in the OpenAlex metadata.

Main findings

Findings are not separately available in the OpenAlex metadata.

Limitations

Limitations are not available in the OpenAlex metadata.

Applications

Application details are not available in the OpenAlex metadata.

Available abstract

When a bore travels shoreward into water at rest on a beach, then according to the first-order non-linear long-wave theory, the bore accelerates and decreases in height, until it collapses at the shore. The investigation here reported concerns the question, what happens next? It is formulated as a singular characteristic boundary-value problem with somewhat unusual mathematical properties. Its asymptotic solution predicts a rather thin sheet of run-up and back-wash with some unexpected features.

Key concepts: Rest (music), Climb, Geology, Shore, Mechanics, Boundary (topology), Mathematical analysis, Mathematics

Related papers

Back to paper searchBrowse research topicsOriginal source
Climb of a bore on a beach Part 3. Run-up — Research Paper | ScholarLens