Bar‐generating cross‐shore flow mechanisms on a beach
Dano Roelvink, M.J.F. Stive
Abstract
Dano Roelvink, M.J.F. Stive
Abstract
Random waves normally incident on a dissipative beach induce a variety of cross‐shore flows, such as asymmetric oscillatory flow, wave grouping‐induced long‐wave flow, breaking‐induced turbulent flow, and momentum decay‐induced undertow. These flows are identified, analyzed and hindcasted in a set of laboratory experiments with the aim of revealing the role of each of the flow mechanisms in the two‐dimensional case of bar generation on a beach.
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Random waves normally incident on a dissipative beach induce a variety of cross‐shore flows, such as asymmetric oscillatory flow, wave grouping‐induced long‐wave flow, breaking‐induced turbulent flow, and momentum decay‐induced undertow. These flows are identified, analyzed and hindcasted in a set of laboratory experiments with the aim of revealing the role of each of the flow mechanisms in the two‐dimensional case of bar generation on a beach.
Key concepts: Turbulence, Shore, Flow (mathematics), Geology, Breaking wave, Mechanics, Dissipative system, Meteorology