2005Unpublished venueRequires access

Pixel Couture, Textile Collection

Melanie Bowles

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Abstract

This research investigates the digital print method of sublimation printing textiles using disperse dyes and low-tech desk-top printers. Sublimation printing has been widely used by the promotion industry for its rapid prototyping and commercial viability and is an immediate design to print process. This research looks at the potential for this method of digital print to be set up for small-scale production allowing the designer to be in full control of production and sampling. The research focuses on practical experiments across two main areas: 1. Technical - The research tested this digital print process observing the range and vibrancy of colour and the level of detail in comparison to traditional print methods. The research involved testing over 50 different polyesters to see the quality of print, and identify which fabrics are appropriate for a high-end fashion outcome. The work was sponsored by Lyson (www.lyson.com), who were interested in the creative application of their product. 2. Aesthetic - The traditional sublimation printed product can be crude with an unsophisticated design for the low-end market. Here the research investigated and developed this print process alongside innovative digital design work to create a collection of printed fabrics aimed towards the high-end market for fashion, thus creating a new aesthetic for textile design and digital print. The outcome of the research was a sample collection which was represented by Amanda Kelly International, and shown at the creative textile fair Indigo, Paris, and viewed by fashion houses such as Donna Karen, Calvin Klein and Emanuel Ungaro. Six out of eight designs were sold and put into production. It subsequently went on to be shown in New York and Japan. Consultancy work has since been completed, setting up of similar small scale print production facilities for design houses such as Amanda Kelly and Westcott Designs, London.

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What this paper is about

This research investigates the digital print method of sublimation printing textiles using disperse dyes and low-tech desk-top printers. Sublimation printing has been widely used by the promotion industry for its rapid prototyping and commercial viability and is an immediate design to print process. This research looks at the potential for this method of digital print to be set up for small-scale production allowing the designer to be in full control of production and sampling. The research focuses on practical experiments across two main areas: 1. Technical - The research tested this digital print process observing the range and vibrancy of colour and the level of detail in comparison to traditional print methods. The research involved testing over 50 different polyesters to see the quality of print, and identify which fabrics are appropriate for a high-end fashion outcome. The work was sponsored by Lyson (www.lyson.com), who were interested in the creative application of their product. 2. Aesthetic - The traditional sublimation printed product can be crude with an unsophisticated design for the low-end market. Here the research investigated and developed this print process alongside innovative digital design work to create a collection of printed fabrics aimed towards the high-end market for fashion, thus creating a new aesthetic for textile design and digital print. The outcome of the research was a sample collection which was represented by Amanda Kelly International, and shown at the creative textile fair Indigo, Paris, and viewed by fashion houses such as Donna Karen, Calvin Klein and Emanuel Ungaro. Six out of eight designs were sold and put into production. It subsequently went on to be shown in New York and Japan. Consultancy work has since been completed, setting up of similar small scale print production facilities for design houses such as Amanda Kelly and Westcott Designs, London.

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Available abstract

This research investigates the digital print method of sublimation printing textiles using disperse dyes and low-tech desk-top printers. Sublimation printing has been widely used by the promotion industry for its rapid prototyping and commercial viability and is an immediate design to print process. This research looks at the potential for this method of digital print to be set up for small-scale production allowing the designer to be in full control of production and sampling. The research focuses on practical experiments across two main areas: 1. Technical - The research tested this digital print process observing the range and vibrancy of colour and the level of detail in comparison to traditional print methods. The research involved testing over 50 different polyesters to see the quality of print, and identify which fabrics are appropriate for a high-end fashion outcome. The work was sponsored by Lyson (www.lyson.com), who were interested in the creative application of their product. 2. Aesthetic - The traditional sublimation printed product can be crude with an unsophisticated design for the low-end market. Here the research investigated and developed this print process alongside innovative digital design work to create a collection of printed fabrics aimed towards the high-end market for fashion, thus creating a new aesthetic for textile design and digital print. The outcome of the research was a sample collection which was represented by Amanda Kelly International, and shown at the creative textile fair Indigo, Paris, and viewed by fashion houses such as Donna Karen, Calvin Klein and Emanuel Ungaro. Six out of eight designs were sold and put into production. It subsequently went on to be shown in New York and Japan. Consultancy work has since been completed, setting up of similar small scale print production facilities for design houses such as Amanda Kelly and Westcott Designs, London.

Key concepts: Desk, Textile design, Digital printing, Textile, Fashion design, Engineering, Clothing, Visual arts

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