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クノイド波に関する研究(第7報) ―shoaling に関する実験―
雄一 岩垣, 哲郎 酒井
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Abstract
The fifth paper gave firstly the equations of total energy and energy transmission ofhyperbolic waves of the second approximation and secondly theoretical curves on variationsof wave height, wave crest height and wave velocity due to wave shoaling.This paper presents the results of experiments on wave shoaling and comparisons withthe theoretical curves based on hyperbolic wave and Stokes wave theories, which resultin good agreement for wave height variation. In addition, an importance of comprehensivestudies for not only wave height variation but also wave profile deformation in processof wave shoaling is pointed out.