A STUDY FOR THE GENERATION MECHANISIM OF THE RIP CURRENT AT THE ENCLOSED BEACH BY THE PIER
Naoyuki INUKAI, Takeshi Ootake, Hiroshi Yamamoto, Tokuzo HOSOYAMADA
Abstract
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Naoyuki INUKAI, Takeshi Ootake, Hiroshi Yamamoto, Tokuzo HOSOYAMADA
Abstract
Open-access reader
The rip current occurs at the wave breaking area near the beach, and the accident that is related to the rip current occurs every year in the world. Some generation mechanisms of rip current are known. For example, the rip current occurs at the sand beach that has the cusp topography, and occurs near structures such as piers or groins. In Niigata, there is not many large beach, and ordinary the beach is enclosed the groins those were built to protect from the coastal erosion. This study tried to comprehend the generation mechanism of rip current at the enclosed beach by the groins. Firstly, this study did field survey and comprehended the large scale and velocity of rip current. In this method, the rip current was pigmented by the sea water colorant, and the pigmented current was recorded as the aerial photography by the multi-copter. Secondary, this study reproduced the rip current by the numerical simulation. The result was compared with the field observation data.
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The rip current occurs at the wave breaking area near the beach, and the accident that is related to the rip current occurs every year in the world. Some generation mechanisms of rip current are known. For example, the rip current occurs at the sand beach that has the cusp topography, and occurs near structures such as piers or groins. In Niigata, there is not many large beach, and ordinary the beach is enclosed the groins those were built to protect from the coastal erosion. This study tried to comprehend the generation mechanism of rip current at the enclosed beach by the groins. Firstly, this study did field survey and comprehended the large scale and velocity of rip current. In this method, the rip current was pigmented by the sea water colorant, and the pigmented current was recorded as the aerial photography by the multi-copter. Secondary, this study reproduced the rip current by the numerical simulation. The result was compared with the field observation data.
Key concepts: Rip current, Current (fluid), Geology, Surf zone, Pier, Oceanography, Geography, Shore