2018Coastal EngineeringOpen access

Laboratory validation of SWASH longshore current modelling

Rong Zhang, Marcel Zijlema, M.J.F. Stive

Open full text 14 citations

Abstract

In this paper, the ability of the numerical phase resolving model SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) to hindcast wave-induced longshore currents is evaluated. Using default settings for all processes modelled, highly accurate results are found for wave heights, mean water levels and longshore currents. While wave current interaction is intrinsically modelled, insights into the spatial variation of wave driven longshore currents are found. Additionally, vertical variations of modelled longshore currents have been compared. Depth uniform profiles of longshore current within surf zone are noted on plane beaches under regular waves, except for minor deviations near the shoreline. The apparent validity of a depth-uniform longshore current encourages the use of a depth-averaged moment balance equation to compute the longshore current. A simpler model is shown to also be able to predict a proper magnitude of longshore current, although the cross-shore distribution – in contrast with SWASH - needs tuning for the eddy viscosity and the bottom friction coefficient, since the distribution of the wave-induced longshore current heavily depends on lateral mixing.

Open-access reader

About this research paper

What this paper is about

In this paper, the ability of the numerical phase resolving model SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) to hindcast wave-induced longshore currents is evaluated. Using default settings for all processes modelled, highly accurate results are found for wave heights, mean water levels and longshore currents. While wave current interaction is intrinsically modelled, insights into the spatial variation of wave driven longshore currents are found. Additionally, vertical variations of modelled longshore currents have been compared. Depth uniform profiles of longshore current within surf zone are noted on plane beaches under regular waves, except for minor deviations near the shoreline. The apparent validity of a depth-uniform longshore current encourages the use of a depth-averaged moment balance equation to compute the longshore current. A simpler model is shown to also be able to predict a proper magnitude of longshore current, although the cross-shore distribution – in contrast with SWASH - needs tuning for the eddy viscosity and the bottom friction coefficient, since the distribution of the wave-induced longshore current heavily depends on lateral mixing.

Why it matters

OpenAlex reports 14 citations for this work. Citation counts describe recorded attention and do not establish research quality.

Key contribution

A contribution statement is not available in the OpenAlex record.

Method / approach

Method details are not available in the OpenAlex metadata.

Main findings

Findings are not separately available in the OpenAlex metadata.

Limitations

Limitations are not available in the OpenAlex metadata.

Applications

Application details are not available in the OpenAlex metadata.

Available abstract

In this paper, the ability of the numerical phase resolving model SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) to hindcast wave-induced longshore currents is evaluated. Using default settings for all processes modelled, highly accurate results are found for wave heights, mean water levels and longshore currents. While wave current interaction is intrinsically modelled, insights into the spatial variation of wave driven longshore currents are found. Additionally, vertical variations of modelled longshore currents have been compared. Depth uniform profiles of longshore current within surf zone are noted on plane beaches under regular waves, except for minor deviations near the shoreline. The apparent validity of a depth-uniform longshore current encourages the use of a depth-averaged moment balance equation to compute the longshore current. A simpler model is shown to also be able to predict a proper magnitude of longshore current, although the cross-shore distribution – in contrast with SWASH - needs tuning for the eddy viscosity and the bottom friction coefficient, since the distribution of the wave-induced longshore current heavily depends on lateral mixing.

Key concepts: Longshore drift, Swash, Geology, Wave setup, Surf zone, Current (fluid), Plage, Shore

Related papers

Back to paper searchBrowse research topicsOriginal source
Laboratory validation of SWASH longshore current modelling — Research Paper | ScholarLens