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1986•Coastal Engineering in JapanRequires access

Numerical Modeling of Nearshore Wave Field Under Combined Refraction, Diffraction and Breaking

Akira Watanabe, Kohki Maruyama

Open publisher page 73 citations

Abstract

A numerical model based on newly-derived mild slope equations is presented. Its accuracy is verified through comparisons with analytical solutions of shoaling, refraction and diffraction. Breaking and wave decay in the surf zone are also incorporated in the model. Good agreements are shown between calculations and hydraulic experiments of nearshore waves around a detached breakwater and a jetty. Formulas for radiation stresses of the compound wave field are also presented.

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What this paper is about

A numerical model based on newly-derived mild slope equations is presented. Its accuracy is verified through comparisons with analytical solutions of shoaling, refraction and diffraction. Breaking and wave decay in the surf zone are also incorporated in the model. Good agreements are shown between calculations and hydraulic experiments of nearshore waves around a detached breakwater and a jetty. Formulas for radiation stresses of the compound wave field are also presented.

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OpenAlex reports 73 citations for this work. Citation counts describe recorded attention and do not establish research quality.

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Available abstract

A numerical model based on newly-derived mild slope equations is presented. Its accuracy is verified through comparisons with analytical solutions of shoaling, refraction and diffraction. Breaking and wave decay in the surf zone are also incorporated in the model. Good agreements are shown between calculations and hydraulic experiments of nearshore waves around a detached breakwater and a jetty. Formulas for radiation stresses of the compound wave field are also presented.

Key concepts: Breaking wave, Refraction, Diffraction, Field (mathematics), Geology, Coastal engineering, Seawall, Mechanics

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