Swash Zone Morphodynamics on a Steep, High Energy Beach

Abstract : LONG-TERM GOALS. The long-term goal of this program is to understand the processes that determine the erosion/accretion rates and patterns on a steep, porous beach face for a wide range of incident wave conditions. OBJECTIVES. The objective of this project is to relate incident wave conditions and the resulting foreshore morphology response at Waimea Bay, a steep pocket beach on the north shore of Oahu, Hawaii. The run-up variability, characterized using Argus video imagery, will be compared to offshore and breaking wave heights. The resulting picture of incident wave forcing will be related to three-dimensional morphology changes determined using high resolution RTK-GPS (Real-Time Kinematic GPS) surveys. The results from this high energy, reflective beach will then be compared with observations from more dissipative beaches. We seek to determine whether characteristic beach parameters are useful for categorizing and understanding swash zone morphodynamics for high energy environments.