1994AFA WatchbirdRequires access

Canaries A Life-long Hobby

Gerald Hays

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Abstract

'l V ~en the days begin to grow wb~ighter and the world shows signs of wakening from winter, something stirs within. It's the old desire to participate in the process, an urge to be somehow a part of the eternal promise of new life. I used to tell myself that next year would be different. We would take a trip and not be home-bound all spring. But every year that same old feeling returns, and I can't help wondering what this or that combination will produce. No use to fight it. I've decided simply to yield and enjoy it. Once again, the birds are paired up and I'm sticking close to home for the season. At the urging of a friend, I have attempted to record a few things that have worked for me. These are things that I have learned, mostly the hard way, over the last 50 years. These habits have brought me satisfaction with my backyard hobby. (It took only one season in the house to convince my wife that the hobby should be backyard, not spare-bedroom!) My bird house consists of three major parts. On either side of the center walk-in storage area are two walk-in flight pens that are 8' x 10' in size. The roof covers all and extends well beyond the walls to add further shade and protection. The back wall is solid. Three sides are partially covered with wood that extends from the concrete floor up 3-1/2'. This protects the birds from our bird-hunter cocker spaniel. The outside open part of the house is covered with screen for protection from mosquitoes which can and do bring a pox if they get to the birds. The screen makes it more difficult to see the birds, but I consider it a necessity. I have used a vaccine against avian pox, but find the screen more satisfactory. On the inside of the flight area, and separated from the screen by three or four inches, I use common 5/8 aviary wire. This works well to keep the birds off the screen in which their toes might become entangled. The space  between the screen and the wire also keeps the birds away from any cats that get past the cocker spaniel. Cats may be trusted to be interested in birds! Their fish-hook claws can snag a bird against aviary wire and tear it to pieces. I am very careful to guard against anything on which the birds may catch a claw or snag their seamless leg bands. Small, stiff wire ends, if long enough and in areas where birds light and hop around, may result in a bird's ensnaring itself and twisting off a leg in an attempt to become free. The center section entry, which leads to either of the flight pens, is a lifesaver and prevents the loss of birds that might dart out an open door. It also is handy for storing seed and other items used in the flight pens. When it's time for identifying young males in late August or September, I set up a series of cages in which I put three or four young birds that are marked or colored differently enough from each other that I can identify which ones I hear and see singing. These I mark with a blue plastic band on the left leg, then return them to the flight pen. My memory being what it is, I find it helpful to make a diagram of the cages being watched and to record which birds have sung. This gets us started. The process goes on through the fall. It usually works for me. Of course, in breeding season the vents of the sexes begin to show marked differences. I usually check these. The vent area of the cock bird protrudes markedly and in older cocks is rather easily identifiable. The female's vent area is broad and flat and, as laying time approaches, resembles somewhat the area of the laying chicken's vent and abdomenbroad and full. I have never had success with needles on strings and some of the other gimmicks by which some swear to tell sexes. For me, the only sure way is to hear and see the male sing. Of course, if a singing hen (almost a non-happening) lays an egg, one would need to rethink the matter! One needs to remember that caged birds can feed their babies only from the foodstuff made available to them by their keepers. They will not reproduce effectively if they are not properly fed. Along with a good roller mix of seed and cuttlebone, I offer my birds a formula given to me by Great Aunt Clara about 40 years ago. The mix included two finely chopped hard-boiled eggs, shell and all; two heaping tablespoons of finely rolled bread crumbs; two heaping tablespoons of any kind of dry baby cereal; one heaping tablespoon of wheat germ and about one-quarter spoon of sugar (optional). These I mix well in quantities large enough to last four or five days and store in covered containers in the refrigerator. I feed as much as the birds will clean up, twice a day. This varies according to the number of babies; I start with one tablespoon at a time. I also feed a round slice (quarter of an inch thick) of boiled carrot, a bit of broccoli flower and chickweed, in season. The birds are fond of romaine lettuce, raw cabbage, orange and apple. I have not had a problem with apple as some people report they've had. My birds seem to like the softer varieties of apple better than firm ones such as Granny Smith. A quarter of an orange, especially in hot weather, is another way of giving your birds the liquid they need. For nests, I have offered a variety of cup-like containers including tuna cans and cottage cheese cartons. Now I use commercial plastic nests onto which I sew or tape a bit of flannel cloth for a bottom liner. If screen nests are used, cloth covering is especially important so that the birds do not catch their toenails and hang themselves. I shred 3 x 4 squares of burlap and give them to the birds so that they can fashion their own nests. They also like to use horse hair and make beautiful nests from it. In the past when I kept Shetland ponies, an abundance of hair was readily at hand. Banding, as well as identifying, gives your birds a sort of class. The babies' feet will be right for banding sometime between five and eight days old, depending on the kinds of birds you have and the rate at which the birds are growing. Some parent birds are better feeders than others, and their babies do grow better than those from poor fe eders . Some breeders look for the little feathers forming on the wings as a sign for size for banding. I simply watch the feet. In large clutches, not all babies from the same nest will be ready on the same day. If you band too soon, the band comes off and may be lost. If you wait too long, you may injure the foot or not be able to band at all. Pushing three toes forward and through the sea mless band and pulling the band over the foot , and over that toe that extends backward, and up the leg until that last toe slips through, requires dexterity and skill. The reward comes later when you spot a bird and think , That's my bird. Sure enough, the band confirms it (or blows a hole in your self-confidence).

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'l V ~en the days begin to grow wb~ighter and the world shows signs of wakening from winter, something stirs within. It's the old desire to participate in the process, an urge to be somehow a part of the eternal promise of new life. I used to tell myself that next year would be different. We would take a trip and not be home-bound all spring. But every year that same old feeling returns, and I can't help wondering what this or that combination will produce. No use to fight it. I've decided simply to yield and enjoy it. Once again, the birds are paired up and I'm sticking close to home for the season. At the urging of a friend, I have attempted to record a few things that have worked for me. These are things that I have learned, mostly the hard way, over the last 50 years. These habits have brought me satisfaction with my backyard hobby. (It took only one season in the house to convince my wife that the hobby should be backyard, not spare-bedroom!) My bird house consists of three major parts. On either side of the center walk-in storage area are two walk-in flight pens that are 8' x 10' in size. The roof covers all and extends well beyond the walls to add further shade and protection. The back wall is solid. Three sides are partially covered with wood that extends from the concrete floor up 3-1/2'. This protects the birds from our bird-hunter cocker spaniel. The outside open part of the house is covered with screen for protection from mosquitoes which can and do bring a pox if they get to the birds. The screen makes it more difficult to see the birds, but I consider it a necessity. I have used a vaccine against avian pox, but find the screen more satisfactory. On the inside of the flight area, and separated from the screen by three or four inches, I use common 5/8 aviary wire. This works well to keep the birds off the screen in which their toes might become entangled. The space  between the screen and the wire also keeps the birds away from any cats that get past the cocker spaniel. Cats may be trusted to be interested in birds! Their fish-hook claws can snag a bird against aviary wire and tear it to pieces. I am very careful to guard against anything on which the birds may catch a claw or snag their seamless leg bands. Small, stiff wire ends, if long enough and in areas where birds light and hop around, may result in a bird's ensnaring itself and twisting off a leg in an attempt to become free. The center section entry, which leads to either of the flight pens, is a lifesaver and prevents the loss of birds that might dart out an open door. It also is handy for storing seed and other items used in the flight pens. When it's time for identifying young males in late August or September, I set up a series of cages in which I put three or four young birds that are marked or colored differently enough from each other that I can identify which ones I hear and see singing. These I mark with a blue plastic band on the left leg, then return them to the flight pen. My memory being what it is, I find it helpful to make a diagram of the cages being watched and to record which birds have sung. This gets us started. The process goes on through the fall. It usually works for me. Of course, in breeding season the vents of the sexes begin to show marked differences. I usually check these. The vent area of the cock bird protrudes markedly and in older cocks is rather easily identifiable. The female's vent area is broad and flat and, as laying time approaches, resembles somewhat the area of the laying chicken's vent and abdomenbroad and full. I have never had success with needles on strings and some of the other gimmicks by which some swear to tell sexes. For me, the only sure way is to hear and see the male sing. Of course, if a singing hen (almost a non-happening) lays an egg, one would need to rethink the matter! One needs to remember that caged birds can feed their babies only from the foodstuff made available to them by their keepers. They will not reproduce effectively if they are not properly fed. Along with a good roller mix of seed and cuttlebone, I offer my birds a formula given to me by Great Aunt Clara about 40 years ago. The mix included two finely chopped hard-boiled eggs, shell and all; two heaping tablespoons of finely rolled bread crumbs; two heaping tablespoons of any kind of dry baby cereal; one heaping tablespoon of wheat germ and about one-quarter spoon of sugar (optional). These I mix well in quantities large enough to last four or five days and store in covered containers in the refrigerator. I feed as much as the birds will clean up, twice a day. This varies according to the number of babies; I start with one tablespoon at a time. I also feed a round slice (quarter of an inch thick) of boiled carrot, a bit of broccoli flower and chickweed, in season. The birds are fond of romaine lettuce, raw cabbage, orange and apple. I have not had a problem with apple as some people report they've had. My birds seem to like the softer varieties of apple better than firm ones such as Granny Smith. A quarter of an orange, especially in hot weather, is another way of giving your birds the liquid they need. For nests, I have offered a variety of cup-like containers including tuna cans and cottage cheese cartons. Now I use commercial plastic nests onto which I sew or tape a bit of flannel cloth for a bottom liner. If screen nests are used, cloth covering is especially important so that the birds do not catch their toenails and hang themselves. I shred 3 x 4 squares of burlap and give them to the birds so that they can fashion their own nests. They also like to use horse hair and make beautiful nests from it. In the past when I kept Shetland ponies, an abundance of hair was readily at hand. Banding, as well as identifying, gives your birds a sort of class. The babies' feet will be right for banding sometime between five and eight days old, depending on the kinds of birds you have and the rate at which the birds are growing. Some parent birds are better feeders than others, and their babies do grow better than those from poor fe eders . Some breeders look for the little feathers forming on the wings as a sign for size for banding. I simply watch the feet. In large clutches, not all babies from the same nest will be ready on the same day. If you band too soon, the band comes off and may be lost. If you wait too long, you may injure the foot or not be able to band at all. Pushing three toes forward and through the sea mless band and pulling the band over the foot , and over that toe that extends backward, and up the leg until that last toe slips through, requires dexterity and skill. The reward comes later when you spot a bird and think , That's my bird. Sure enough, the band confirms it (or blows a hole in your self-confidence).

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Available abstract

'l V ~en the days begin to grow wb~ighter and the world shows signs of wakening from winter, something stirs within. It's the old desire to participate in the process, an urge to be somehow a part of the eternal promise of new life. I used to tell myself that next year would be different. We would take a trip and not be home-bound all spring. But every year that same old feeling returns, and I can't help wondering what this or that combination will produce. No use to fight it. I've decided simply to yield and enjoy it. Once again, the birds are paired up and I'm sticking close to home for the season. At the urging of a friend, I have attempted to record a few things that have worked for me. These are things that I have learned, mostly the hard way, over the last 50 years. These habits have brought me satisfaction with my backyard hobby. (It took only one season in the house to convince my wife that the hobby should be backyard, not spare-bedroom!) My bird house consists of three major parts. On either side of the center walk-in storage area are two walk-in flight pens that are 8' x 10' in size. The roof covers all and extends well beyond the walls to add further shade and protection. The back wall is solid. Three sides are partially covered with wood that extends from the concrete floor up 3-1/2'. This protects the birds from our bird-hunter cocker spaniel. The outside open part of the house is covered with screen for protection from mosquitoes which can and do bring a pox if they get to the birds. The screen makes it more difficult to see the birds, but I consider it a necessity. I have used a vaccine against avian pox, but find the screen more satisfactory. On the inside of the flight area, and separated from the screen by three or four inches, I use common 5/8 aviary wire. This works well to keep the birds off the screen in which their toes might become entangled. The space  between the screen and the wire also keeps the birds away from any cats that get past the cocker spaniel. Cats may be trusted to be interested in birds! Their fish-hook claws can snag a bird against aviary wire and tear it to pieces. I am very careful to guard against anything on which the birds may catch a claw or snag their seamless leg bands. Small, stiff wire ends, if long enough and in areas where birds light and hop around, may result in a bird's ensnaring itself and twisting off a leg in an attempt to become free. The center section entry, which leads to either of the flight pens, is a lifesaver and prevents the loss of birds that might dart out an open door. It also is handy for storing seed and other items used in the flight pens. When it's time for identifying young males in late August or September, I set up a series of cages in which I put three or four young birds that are marked or colored differently enough from each other that I can identify which ones I hear and see singing. These I mark with a blue plastic band on the left leg, then return them to the flight pen. My memory being what it is, I find it helpful to make a diagram of the cages being watched and to record which birds have sung. This gets us started. The process goes on through the fall. It usually works for me. Of course, in breeding season the vents of the sexes begin to show marked differences. I usually check these. The vent area of the cock bird protrudes markedly and in older cocks is rather easily identifiable. The female's vent area is broad and flat and, as laying time approaches, resembles somewhat the area of the laying chicken's vent and abdomenbroad and full. I have never had success with needles on strings and some of the other gimmicks by which some swear to tell sexes. For me, the only sure way is to hear and see the male sing. Of course, if a singing hen (almost a non-happening) lays an egg, one would need to rethink the matter! One needs to remember that caged birds can feed their babies only from the foodstuff made available to them by their keepers. They will not reproduce effectively if they are not properly fed. Along with a good roller mix of seed and cuttlebone, I offer my birds a formula given to me by Great Aunt Clara about 40 years ago. The mix included two finely chopped hard-boiled eggs, shell and all; two heaping tablespoons of finely rolled bread crumbs; two heaping tablespoons of any kind of dry baby cereal; one heaping tablespoon of wheat germ and about one-quarter spoon of sugar (optional). These I mix well in quantities large enough to last four or five days and store in covered containers in the refrigerator. I feed as much as the birds will clean up, twice a day. This varies according to the number of babies; I start with one tablespoon at a time. I also feed a round slice (quarter of an inch thick) of boiled carrot, a bit of broccoli flower and chickweed, in season. The birds are fond of romaine lettuce, raw cabbage, orange and apple. I have not had a problem with apple as some people report they've had. My birds seem to like the softer varieties of apple better than firm ones such as Granny Smith. A quarter of an orange, especially in hot weather, is another way of giving your birds the liquid they need. For nests, I have offered a variety of cup-like containers including tuna cans and cottage cheese cartons. Now I use commercial plastic nests onto which I sew or tape a bit of flannel cloth for a bottom liner. If screen nests are used, cloth covering is especially important so that the birds do not catch their toenails and hang themselves. I shred 3 x 4 squares of burlap and give them to the birds so that they can fashion their own nests. They also like to use horse hair and make beautiful nests from it. In the past when I kept Shetland ponies, an abundance of hair was readily at hand. Banding, as well as identifying, gives your birds a sort of class. The babies' feet will be right for banding sometime between five and eight days old, depending on the kinds of birds you have and the rate at which the birds are growing. Some parent birds are better feeders than others, and their babies do grow better than those from poor fe eders . Some breeders look for the little feathers forming on the wings as a sign for size for banding. I simply watch the feet. In large clutches, not all babies from the same nest will be ready on the same day. If you band too soon, the band comes off and may be lost. If you wait too long, you may injure the foot or not be able to band at all. Pushing three toes forward and through the sea mless band and pulling the band over the foot , and over that toe that extends backward, and up the leg until that last toe slips through, requires dexterity and skill. The reward comes later when you spot a bird and think , That's my bird. Sure enough, the band confirms it (or blows a hole in your self-confidence).

Key concepts: Hobby, Geography, Engineering, Visual arts, Art

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