The Distribution of Wave Height in Wave Groups
Dong Liu
Abstract
Dong Liu
Abstract
The study is made on the distribution of wave height in wave groups by analyzing wind wave data in the laboratory.It is found that the run of the wave group is an important factor in influencing the distribution of wave height in wave groups.The information entropy of the distribution of wave height increases with the run of the wave group.Non-dimensionalized with average wave height,the accumulative probability of wave height in wave groups with long runs is remarkably larger than in wave groups with short runs.The wave height distribution in wave groups depends on spectral width.The accumulative probability of wave height decreases with increasing spectral width.The effect of spectral width on the accumulative probability of wave height is comparable to that of the run.A non-dimensionalizing parameter of wave height reflecting the properties of wave groups is introduced in studying the accumulative probability of wave height in the wave group.
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The study is made on the distribution of wave height in wave groups by analyzing wind wave data in the laboratory.It is found that the run of the wave group is an important factor in influencing the distribution of wave height in wave groups.The information entropy of the distribution of wave height increases with the run of the wave group.Non-dimensionalized with average wave height,the accumulative probability of wave height in wave groups with long runs is remarkably larger than in wave groups with short runs.The wave height distribution in wave groups depends on spectral width.The accumulative probability of wave height decreases with increasing spectral width.The effect of spectral width on the accumulative probability of wave height is comparable to that of the run.A non-dimensionalizing parameter of wave height reflecting the properties of wave groups is introduced in studying the accumulative probability of wave height in the wave group.
Key concepts: Significant wave height, Wave height, Wave shoaling, Stokes wave, Wave setup, Surface wave, Wind wave, Mathematics