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EFFECTS OF WIND ON THE WAVE ADVANCING TOWARDS SHORE

Zhigang Cao

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Abstract

The effects of wind on wave propagation in shallow water are approached in this paper. The equations for calculating wave elements in shallow water are derived by the law of wave refraction and the equation of wave energy flux. The numerical results calculated by the electronic computer show that under the influence of wind, the wave elements, wave direction angle and the conditions of wave breaker change greatly. Consequently, the effects of wind on the water wave propagating in shallow water need to be considered in practice.

About this research paper

What this paper is about

The effects of wind on wave propagation in shallow water are approached in this paper. The equations for calculating wave elements in shallow water are derived by the law of wave refraction and the equation of wave energy flux. The numerical results calculated by the electronic computer show that under the influence of wind, the wave elements, wave direction angle and the conditions of wave breaker change greatly. Consequently, the effects of wind on the water wave propagating in shallow water need to be considered in practice.

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Available abstract

The effects of wind on wave propagation in shallow water are approached in this paper. The equations for calculating wave elements in shallow water are derived by the law of wave refraction and the equation of wave energy flux. The numerical results calculated by the electronic computer show that under the influence of wind, the wave elements, wave direction angle and the conditions of wave breaker change greatly. Consequently, the effects of wind on the water wave propagating in shallow water need to be considered in practice.

Key concepts: Refraction, Waves and shallow water, Wave shoaling, Wave model, Wind wave, Energy flux, Shore, Surface wave

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