Experimental study on multi-directional focused wave breaking in wave basin
Keyyong Hong
Abstract
Keyyong Hong
Abstract
This paper presents the experimental study on the multi-directional focusing waves and breaking waves,which are generated in wave basin by using focusing wave method with two different spectrums(constant wave amplitude spectrum and constant wave steepness spectrum) and two different water depths.For the breaking wave,the wave surface characteristics,the breaking criteria and the spectral variation during the wave packet propagation were studied.The results show that spectral distribution,water depth and wave directionality affect the breaking wave characteristics.The wave spectra in high frequency range are distinctly changing during the packet propagation,and the shift of higher frequencies can be distinctly observed.Energy losses during wave breaking are mainly from higher frequency wave band.
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This paper presents the experimental study on the multi-directional focusing waves and breaking waves,which are generated in wave basin by using focusing wave method with two different spectrums(constant wave amplitude spectrum and constant wave steepness spectrum) and two different water depths.For the breaking wave,the wave surface characteristics,the breaking criteria and the spectral variation during the wave packet propagation were studied.The results show that spectral distribution,water depth and wave directionality affect the breaking wave characteristics.The wave spectra in high frequency range are distinctly changing during the packet propagation,and the shift of higher frequencies can be distinctly observed.Energy losses during wave breaking are mainly from higher frequency wave band.
Key concepts: Breaking wave, Wave shoaling, Wave packet, Surface wave, Amplitude, Stokes wave, Wave propagation, Physics