Beach Morphodynamics and Impact Factors on the Beaches in the Northern and Eastern of Shandong Peninsula
Yuan Liang
Abstract
Yuan Liang
Abstract
Types of beach morphodynamics are divided for the typical beaches along the northern and eastern coasts of Shandong Peninsula based on beach-flat forms,wave-sediment parameters(Dean parameters) and five repeated beach profile surveys carried out from 2003 to 2006.Relationships between the beach morphodynamical types and the wave conditions are also discussed by comparing the differences in seasonal changes of beach profiles in the north with those in the east.The results show that: 1) according to the wave-sediment parameters,which are indicative of division of beach morphodynamical types in the studied areas,the beaches along the northern coast of the peninsula are dominated by a dissipative type and a transition type,whereas along the eastern coast of the peninsula the beaches are mainly composed of a transition type and a reflective type;2) the forms of beach bars and beach profiles indicate that the beaches along the northern coast of the peninsula have a changing tendency opposite to those along the eastern coast of the peninsula in summer and winter,with the beach bars occurring frequenctly on the former profiles in summer and on the latter profiles in winter due to small waves;3) although the northeastern coast of the peninsula is mostly subjected to the actions of waves and tides at the same time,the seasonal changes in wave conditions have played an more important role to the beach morphodynamics of the beaches.
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Types of beach morphodynamics are divided for the typical beaches along the northern and eastern coasts of Shandong Peninsula based on beach-flat forms,wave-sediment parameters(Dean parameters) and five repeated beach profile surveys carried out from 2003 to 2006.Relationships between the beach morphodynamical types and the wave conditions are also discussed by comparing the differences in seasonal changes of beach profiles in the north with those in the east.The results show that: 1) according to the wave-sediment parameters,which are indicative of division of beach morphodynamical types in the studied areas,the beaches along the northern coast of the peninsula are dominated by a dissipative type and a transition type,whereas along the eastern coast of the peninsula the beaches are mainly composed of a transition type and a reflective type;2) the forms of beach bars and beach profiles indicate that the beaches along the northern coast of the peninsula have a changing tendency opposite to those along the eastern coast of the peninsula in summer and winter,with the beach bars occurring frequenctly on the former profiles in summer and on the latter profiles in winter due to small waves;3) although the northeastern coast of the peninsula is mostly subjected to the actions of waves and tides at the same time,the seasonal changes in wave conditions have played an more important role to the beach morphodynamics of the beaches.
Key concepts: Beach morphodynamics, Peninsula, Oceanography, Geology, Plage, Breakwater, Sediment, Spring (device)