WAVE SHOALING OF FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVES

Wave shoaling is calculated, based on finite amplitude wave theories on a uniform depth which were extended by the authors using the Stokes second definition for wave celerity. Change of wave characteristics with decrease in water depth is discussed from numerical computation, and difference in shoaling characteristics is considered in comparison with results obtained from usual wave theories by the first definition. Theoretical results are compared with preliminary experimental ones on the wave transformation in shoaling water conducted by the experimental facilities satisfying the physical conditions corresponding to the definition for wave celerity as well as possible, and the validity of each theory for practical purposes is investigated.