2009土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)Open access

Stochastic Forcing Model for the Generation and Evolution of Infragravity waves by Short Gravity Surface Waves

Takashi Izumiya, Makoto Kanai

Open full text 0 citations

Abstract

A stochastic forcing model has been developed to estimate the heights of infragravity waves excited by short gravity surface waves. The model includes a wave equation for infragravity waves with the external force term due to pressure disturbances by short gravity waves. The analytical solution of the wave equation was obtained, and the root-mean-square value of the surface elevation of infragravity waves was estimated. The rms value is proportional to the square root of the spectral moment of -2 order, m-2, of short gravity waves, which is also proportional to the product of the wave height and the peak wave period or the significant wave period of short gravity waves. The estimated rms heights of infragravity waves are compared with the observed data compiled by NOWPHAS and show good agreements with them.

Open-access reader

About this research paper

What this paper is about

A stochastic forcing model has been developed to estimate the heights of infragravity waves excited by short gravity surface waves. The model includes a wave equation for infragravity waves with the external force term due to pressure disturbances by short gravity waves. The analytical solution of the wave equation was obtained, and the root-mean-square value of the surface elevation of infragravity waves was estimated. The rms value is proportional to the square root of the spectral moment of -2 order, m-2, of short gravity waves, which is also proportional to the product of the wave height and the peak wave period or the significant wave period of short gravity waves. The estimated rms heights of infragravity waves are compared with the observed data compiled by NOWPHAS and show good agreements with them.

Why it matters

A significance statement is not available in the OpenAlex record.

Key contribution

A contribution statement is not available in the OpenAlex record.

Method / approach

Method details are not available in the OpenAlex metadata.

Main findings

Findings are not separately available in the OpenAlex metadata.

Limitations

Limitations are not available in the OpenAlex metadata.

Applications

Application details are not available in the OpenAlex metadata.

Available abstract

A stochastic forcing model has been developed to estimate the heights of infragravity waves excited by short gravity surface waves. The model includes a wave equation for infragravity waves with the external force term due to pressure disturbances by short gravity waves. The analytical solution of the wave equation was obtained, and the root-mean-square value of the surface elevation of infragravity waves was estimated. The rms value is proportional to the square root of the spectral moment of -2 order, m-2, of short gravity waves, which is also proportional to the product of the wave height and the peak wave period or the significant wave period of short gravity waves. The estimated rms heights of infragravity waves are compared with the observed data compiled by NOWPHAS and show good agreements with them.

Key concepts: Infragravity wave, Gravity wave, Forcing (mathematics), Surface wave, Gravitational wave, Physics, Geology, Surface gravity

Related papers

Back to paper searchBrowse research topicsOriginal source
Stochastic Forcing Model for the Generation and Evolution of Infragravity waves by Short Gravity Surface Waves — Research Paper | ScholarLens