Topographic Change near the Shoreline during High Waves
Hiroshi OKAMOTO, Shunsuke TAGATA, Masaru Mizuguchi
Abstract
Open-access reader
Hiroshi OKAMOTO, Shunsuke TAGATA, Masaru Mizuguchi
Abstract
Open-access reader
Relationships between the topographic changes near the shoreline and the waves both offshore and just outside the swash zone are studied for some twenty storm events observed during years of 2003 to 2004 at Hasaki. All the storms which lasted long enough produced a kind of equilibrium beach profile of mildly sloping uniform one near the shoreline, irrespective of the initial profiles. It is shown that the slope may be predicted by the parameter by Sunamura(1984), employing either the offshore data of significant waves or the long wave properties near the shoreline.
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Relationships between the topographic changes near the shoreline and the waves both offshore and just outside the swash zone are studied for some twenty storm events observed during years of 2003 to 2004 at Hasaki. All the storms which lasted long enough produced a kind of equilibrium beach profile of mildly sloping uniform one near the shoreline, irrespective of the initial profiles. It is shown that the slope may be predicted by the parameter by Sunamura(1984), employing either the offshore data of significant waves or the long wave properties near the shoreline.
Key concepts: Swash, Shore, Geology, Submarine pipeline, Storm, Plage, Geomorphology, Seismology