A mechanism for rip current generation on an open coast
Robert A. Dalrymple
Abstract
Robert A. Dalrymple
Abstract
Intersecting ocean wave trains of the same frequency will create periodic longshore variations in the mean water level both inside and outside the surf zone. In the surf zone this creates a longshore variation in wave height and wave-induced circulation as described by Bowen but previously attributed to edge waves and irregular bottom topography.
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Intersecting ocean wave trains of the same frequency will create periodic longshore variations in the mean water level both inside and outside the surf zone. In the surf zone this creates a longshore variation in wave height and wave-induced circulation as described by Bowen but previously attributed to edge waves and irregular bottom topography.
Key concepts: Surf zone, Longshore drift, Rip current, Wave setup, Geology, Wave height, Circulation (fluid dynamics), Breaking wave