Relationship between mechanical properties of bilayer textile systems and their components; pp. 150–159

The goal of this research was to define the relationship between the mechanical properties of fused bilayer textile systems and their constituent layers, i.e. fabrics and fusible interlinings. The objects of investigation were four samples of broken twill outer fabric different in thickness (1.01–2.28 mm) and mass per square metre (222–398 g/m2), and two types of fusible interlinings: nonvowen with longitudinal threads and warp knitted. Fused bilayer textile systems were created by changing the orientation of the fusible interlining by 0°, 45°, and 90° in respect to the outer fabric’s warp direction. Mechanical properties (tensile, shear, bending, and surface properties) of fused textile systems and their components were determined using KES-F automated testing devices. The relationships z = z(x, y) between fused textile systems’ mechanical parameters (z) and parameters of the outer fabrics (x), as well as parameters of fusible interlinings (y) in 0°, 45°, and 90° orientations were defined. The obtained theoretical relationships were confirmed experimentally by finding proper mechanical properties of fusible interlinings (y) on the basis of which bilayer textile systems with mechanical properties (z) falling into the allowable value range of the KES-F quality chart could be composed. Selection of compatible components for fused textile systems with certain mechanical parameters allows avoiding problems in garment manufacturing processes and predicting the appearance and quality of the final textile product.