Numerical Simulation of Wave Transformation Using Spectral Wave Action Model

This paper presents a spectral wave action model to simulate random wave deformation and transformation. The wave model is based on the wave action balance equation and can simulate wave fields by accounting for wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction and wind effect in coastal waters. It is a finite-difference, phase averaged model for the steady-state wave spectral transformation. The wave model is applied to verify different experimental cases and real life case of considering the several factor effects. The calculated results agree with the experimental and field data. The results show that the wave model presented herein should be useful in simulating the wave transformation processes in complicated coastal waters.