2007•University of the Arts London Research Online (University of the Arts London)Requires access
Ever and Again, Rethinking Recycled Textiles
Melanie Bowles
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Abstract
This research builds on previous work - ‘Digital Craft’ - and endeavours to create a ‘future antique’ by integrating historical imagery and craft with new digital technologies, whilst also focusing on textiles ‘upcycling’. This is done by combining ecodesign approaches; specifically digital printing, organic base cloths, and long life design (Jonathon Chapman). The research investigated methods of pre-treating new eco textile base cloths for digital print, and incorporating it within a vintage garment. It is part of TED’s AHRC funded collaborative research project – ‘Ever & Again: Rethinking Recycled Textiles’.This research extends the environmental benefits of digital printing over traditional printing by investigating eco fabric base cloths. The research looks at methods of pre-treatmenting of organic cotton, wild silks and hemp, and was developed with commercial partners, RA Smarts (www.belfordprints.co.uk), and Cameron Gilmartin, London. This is a new development in the UK for the combined fields of digital print and eco design. (See similar work being developed by a Netherlands based company - www.printunlimited.nl/newsletter/2007_01_en.html). The research also looked at the integration of eco digitally printed fabric with a vintage garment, in the form of linings, to give it a second life. It continues previous research themes by continuing to attempt to design a ‘future antique’ - here incorporating it into a vintage garment - to create a sophisticated item of high quality. The intention is that the wearer will cherish and keep the artefact, giving a longer life to this couture piece. The outcome for this research was a fashion collection that was exhibited at the ‘Ever & Again’ exhibition in October 2007, at the Triangle Gallery, London, alongside other renowned eco design practitioners such as Rebecca Earley (UK) and Natalie Chanin (USA). It also formed vital research material that will contribute to the researcher’s publication ‘Digital Textiles’ (Laurence-King, 2008).