2003Digital Commons - University of South Florida (University of South Florida)Open access

Evaluation of the CERC Formula Using Large-Scale Laboratory Data

Ernest R. Smith, Píng Wang, Jun Zhang

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Abstract

Longshore transport experiments were conducted in a large-scale physical model to evaluate predictions of the CERC formula with measured longshore sediment transport rates. It was found that the CERC formula produced reasonable estimates if the coefficient K was calibrated and applied to waves with similar breaker type. The calibrated K values are much smaller than values that are commonly used, and there appears to be a strong dependency of transport rate on breaker type. Additional comparisons were made with the formula proposed by Kamphuis (1991). The Kamphuis equation, which includes wave period, a factor that influences breaking, gave good estimates. Examination of the cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport indicates that there are three distinct zones of transport: the incipient breaker zone, the inner surf zone, and the swash zone, with each zone contributing a different fraction to the total transport rate. Transport in the incipient breaker zone was influenced by breaker type, transport in the inner surf zone was controlled by depth, and transport in the swash zone showed dependencies on wave height and, in particular, wave period. Swash zone transport was found to have a significant contribution to the total transport rate.

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Longshore transport experiments were conducted in a large-scale physical model to evaluate predictions of the CERC formula with measured longshore sediment transport rates. It was found that the CERC formula produced reasonable estimates if the coefficient K was calibrated and applied to waves with similar breaker type. The calibrated K values are much smaller than values that are commonly used, and there appears to be a strong dependency of transport rate on breaker type. Additional comparisons were made with the formula proposed by Kamphuis (1991). The Kamphuis equation, which includes wave period, a factor that influences breaking, gave good estimates. Examination of the cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport indicates that there are three distinct zones of transport: the incipient breaker zone, the inner surf zone, and the swash zone, with each zone contributing a different fraction to the total transport rate. Transport in the incipient breaker zone was influenced by breaker type, transport in the inner surf zone was controlled by depth, and transport in the swash zone showed dependencies on wave height and, in particular, wave period. Swash zone transport was found to have a significant contribution to the total transport rate.

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Available abstract

Longshore transport experiments were conducted in a large-scale physical model to evaluate predictions of the CERC formula with measured longshore sediment transport rates. It was found that the CERC formula produced reasonable estimates if the coefficient K was calibrated and applied to waves with similar breaker type. The calibrated K values are much smaller than values that are commonly used, and there appears to be a strong dependency of transport rate on breaker type. Additional comparisons were made with the formula proposed by Kamphuis (1991). The Kamphuis equation, which includes wave period, a factor that influences breaking, gave good estimates. Examination of the cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport indicates that there are three distinct zones of transport: the incipient breaker zone, the inner surf zone, and the swash zone, with each zone contributing a different fraction to the total transport rate. Transport in the incipient breaker zone was influenced by breaker type, transport in the inner surf zone was controlled by depth, and transport in the swash zone showed dependencies on wave height and, in particular, wave period. Swash zone transport was found to have a significant contribution to the total transport rate.

Key concepts: Surf zone, Swash, Sediment transport, Shore, Longshore drift, Breaking wave, Geology, Sediment

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